Explanation of the role of each Board
I will try to explain to you what each board I sell on this site is used for.
KL SHIELD
Do you know the KL25Z , this card which is the heart of your Pincab?
The KL SHIELD will facilitate and secure the wiring of your KL25Z by inserting it into the pins of the latter, and thus provide you with sockets on each input and output of your KL25Z .
No more solitary Dupont cables that do not hold in place and disconnect as soon as you tinker with your machine.
In addition, this card is equipped with a capacitor and a resistor which will allow you to avoid the tremors of your Plunger, which you will have connected to its dedicated output.
You have at your disposal a configuration file which allows you to wire 21 input buttons (more than enough!) On the terminals which are marked on the KL SHIELD . Rather practical!
And if you decide to use one of my extensions, I have planned a dedicated socket to make your job even easier… This card does not replace a KL25Z, it just fits on it!
FUSEBOX
In a Pincab, there is electricity circulating.
Who says electricity says protection, for that we put fuses on each toy, to protect the toy, to protect the power supply, to protect the pincab, and to protect ourselves.
In order to simplify all this, and save space, I make FUSEBOX , cards with 16 fuse holders in 5 × 20 format and small screw-in sockets at the input and output to facilitate and secure the wiring.
For information, all the cards that I develop are equipped with fuse holder, this product is used to compensate for the lack of competition
I also sell the fuses that are housed in it.
BE CAREFUL, we do not put any fuse values, it must be calculated, and all that depends on the toy you are going to plug into it.
The value of a fuse is calculated in Amperes. it must always be a little higher than the maximum consumption of the toy that we are going to plug into it.
The role of the fuse is to melt if the toy consumes too much current, and thus cut off the power supply to the latter.
Take the example of a toy that consumes 4 amps at most of its use. We are going to protect it with a 5 Amps fuse, so if all goes well, the toy will consume its 4 amps, which will pass through the fuse without any problem, but if unfortunately a short circuit occurs in the toy, or it is fault and start to smoke, its consumption will drastically increase, at this moment, the fuse is crossed by a current greater than what is supposed to pass, and at 5 Amps it will melt, thus cutting off the power supply to the defective toy, protecting the power supply and preventing the toy from catching fire, for example.
To calculate the consumption of a toy, you must either look at the documentation of the latter and find the values, or measure it using a serial multimeter in the Ampere-meter position, or using a current clamp. You can also ask on Facebook groups or forums if someone with the same toy knows its consumption.
If on the toy we only find the power in Watts, just use the formula that you must know by heart:
P = U * I
P is Power in Watts, U is Voltage in Volts, and I is Intensity in Amps.
if we have a 10 watt toys which operates at 12 volts, we therefore make 10 watt / 12v = 0.83 a, so we will use a one amp fuse to protect it.
MOSBOARD FULL 8
To control your toys, you must go through Mosfet Transistors because the KL25Z cannot drive toys that consume too much current. It is the KL25Z which therefore controls this Mosfet and tells it to turn on, off, or to graduate the toy.
This card has 8 Mosfet transistors, so you can use it to control 8 toys connected to 8 outputs of the KL25Z .
Each mosfet line has:
- a resistor so as not to draw too much current on the KL25Z (This resistor is not on Chinese mosfets cards, which suddenly heat your KL25Z, thus reducing its lifespan)
- An optocoupler to completely separate the voltages on the KL25Z side and those on the toy side
- A mosfet that can handle voltages up to 50 Volts
- a fuse holder in 5 * 20 format
- A test LED
Each track can carry a maximum current of 5 Amps, and the board can carry a simultaneous total current of 20 Amps.
You can control toys of different voltages with the same card because the control is done on the negative terminal of the toy.
Wiring is facilitated by the terminal blocks which are all marked.
This card uses the Digital and PWMs outputs available on your KL25Z
MOSBOARD FULL 4
To control your toys, you must go through Mosfet Transistors because the KL25Z cannot drive toys that consume too much current. It is the KL25Z which therefore controls this Mosfet and tells it to turn on, off, or to graduate the toy.
This card has 4 Mosfet transistors, so you can use it to control 4 toys connected to 4 outputs of the KL25Z .
Each mosfet line has:
- a resistor so as not to draw too much current on the KL25Z (This resistor is not on Chinese mosfets cards, which suddenly heat your KL25Z, thus reducing its lifespan)
- An optocoupler to completely separate the voltages on the KL25Z side and those on the toy side
- A mosfet that can handle voltages up to 50 Volts
- a fuse holder in 5 * 20 format
- A test LED
Each track can carry a maximum current of 5 Amps, and the board can carry a simultaneous total current of 20 Amps.
You can control toys of different voltages with the same card because the control is done on the negative terminal of the toy.
Wiring is facilitated by the terminal blocks which are all marked.
This card uses the Digital and PWMs outputs available on your KL25Z
THE MOLLUSK
This card allows you to simply add 16 PWM outputs (modular) to a KL25Z .
It uses 5 outputs of the KL25Z (including a PWM).
We do not plug toys directly above, we plug either MOS8, MOS4, MOSLIGHT and MINIMOS4.
The MOLLUSKs are linked to each other in order to add 16 PWM outputs each time
MOS8
Here is the MOS8 which allows you to control 8 toys of 8 amps max using your MOLLUSK
With sockets for ease of use, test LEDs on each output, and a fuse holder for good protection (fuse not supplied).
This card connects to a MOLLUSK.
THIS CARD SHOULD NEVER BE USED ALONE AND WITHOUT MOLLUSK AS THEY WILL DAMAGE YOUR INSTALLATION
Each output receives an intensity of 8 amps, the simultaneous consumption is limited to 20 amps.
You can control toys from 0 to 48 Volts with the same card.
The system consists of a card that is connected to the MOLLUSK using the sockets, the cables are not supplied, we also connect a + 12v from the toys power supply, as well as a GND from of feeding toys. The GND cable coming from the toys power supply must be of a section suitable for handling 20 amps!
This card has 8 fuse holders in 5 * 20 format and output sockets that you will connect to the negative terminal of the toy to be ordered.
MOS4
Here is the MOS4 which allows you to control 4 toys of 8 amps max using your MOLLUSK
With sockets for ease of use, test LEDs on each output, and a fuse holder for good protection (fuse not supplied).
This card connects to a MOLLUSK.
THIS CARD SHOULD NEVER BE USED ALONE AND WITHOUT MOLLUSK AS THEY WILL DAMAGE YOUR INSTALLATION
Each output receives an intensity of 8 amps, the simultaneous consumption is limited to 20 amps.
You can control toys from 0 to 48 Volts with the same card.
The system consists of a card that is connected to the MOLLUSK using the sockets, the cables are not supplied, we also connect a + 12v from the toys power supply, as well as a GND from of feeding toys. The GND cable coming from the toys power supply must be of a section suitable for handling 20 amps!
This card has 8 fuse holders in 5 * 20 format and output sockets that you will connect to the negative terminal of the toy to be ordered.
MINIMOS 4
Here is the MiniMos4 which allows you to control 4 toys of 4 amps max using your MOLLUSK
With sockets for convenience, test LEDs on each output, and a fuse holder for good protection (4Amp fuse supplied).
This card connects to a MOLLUSK.
THIS CARD SHOULD NEVER BE USED ALONE AND WITHOUT MOLLUSK AS THEY WILL DAMAGE YOUR INSTALLATION
Each output receives an intensity of 1 amperes, the simultaneous consumption is limited to 4 amps.
You can control toys from 0 to 48 Volts with the same card.
The system consists of a card that is connected to the MOLLUSK using the sockets, the cables are not supplied, we also connect a + 12v from the toys power supply, as well as a GND from of feeding toys. The GND cable coming from the toys power supply must be of a section suitable for handling 4 amps!
This card has 1 fuse holder in 5 * 20 format and output sockets that you will connect to the negative terminal of the toy to be ordered.
MOS’LIGHT
Here is the MOS’LIGHT of the Death that Kills which allows you to control 16 toys of 1 amps max and 20V using your MOLLUSK.
This card is designed to operate 5 12V RGB Flashes and 2 12V DTG Flashes, but it can just as easily take care of the 12V or 5V LEDs of your buttons, or manage small x-box type vibrators, everything is imaginable as long as you do not exceed the admissible powers.
With sockets for convenience, test LEDs on each output, and fuse holders for good protection (fuses provided).
This card connects to a MOLLUSK.
THIS CARD SHOULD NEVER BE USED ALONE AND WITHOUT MOLLUSK AS THEY WILL DAMAGE YOUR INSTALLATION
Each output receives an intensity of 1 amperes, the simultaneous consumption is limited to 16 amps.
You can control toys from 0 to 20 Volts with the same card.
The system consists of a card that is connected to the MOLLUSK using the sockets, the cables are not supplied, we also connect a + 12v from the toys power supply, as well as a GND from of feeding toys. The GND cable coming from the toys’ power supply must be of a section suitable for handling 16 amperes!
The outputs from 1 to 15 have a common fuse holder with 3 outputs (1-2-3 / 4-5-6 / 7-8-9 / 10-11-12 / 13-14-15) with an included fuse of 3 amps.
Output 16 has a dedicated fuse holder with a 1 amp fuse included.
TEENCAB
Shield to properly connect a TEENSY 3.1, 3.2 or 4.0 in a pincab in order to manage the addressable LEDs, or for any other case.
A test button to test your leds and their color order.
Here is my solution to use your TEENSY in your Pincab. It has a test button that launches a RGBCMYW color sequence in order to properly configure your LEDs, so you will not have the flash each time the Pincab is started.
8 sockets to connect the 8 signal lines, one socket to connect the 5V power supply to the card.
The TEENSY clips onto the board using Dupont connectors.
PINMOS
The PinMos is a shield (support card) which allows a Wemos card to be properly and safely wired in order to control addressable LED strips (to make a backboard, sideboards or whatnot…)
The Wemos card is plugged into the PinMos card.
You have 6 signal outputs to control 6 different ledstrips.
Each signal output is equipped with a 220 Ohm resistor, which can be activated as desired using a micro switch. (resistance is essential with some LED strips).
You also have a double socket to connect the masses of the cards.
VOLTBOARD
The VoltBoard is a card for managing the 5 Volt power supply for addressable LED ribbons for backboards, sideboards and other small flashing things….
Each 1m length of addressable LED 144 consumes 8 Amps.
You need one power line per section of 8 Amps because the LED strips cannot handle more current
We therefore plug our 32 amp power supply into this card, and we have 4 available 8 amp outputs, each protected by their fuse (supplied) in its fuse holder.
Each card has a capacitor to smooth the voltage, and 2 terminal blocks to connect the masses to the control card ( PinMos )
Your installation is thus clean and secure.
THE PIN2DMD SHELTER
This shield allows you to connect your Nucleo F439ZI or F429ZI card to your 2 DMD panels to create a PIN2DMD
2 buttons to navigate in the DMD configuration menu and thus make your various settings (type of panel, DMD brightness, etc.)
A led to check the supply of the Shield
An output to supply the panels with 5V or 4.2V (for recent slabs)
It eliminates the need for Dupont cables and thus secures your installation
USB KILLA
The USB KILLA allows you to turn off the power of your USB peripherals when your PC is turned off.
Connect the card between your USB peripherals (or your USB HUB) and your PC, so when your PC turns on it will power your cards (KL25Z, Wemos,….), And when switching off it will cut them, in order to protect them. .
THE BRAIN
This small card has 8 colored buttons, a calibre card and a 12-pin plug.
It can be easily integrated into your virtual pinball machine, and it allows you to assign the 8 buttons which allow the management of the Roms and the pincab (Door, exit, -, +, enter, Night mode, Volume + and Volume -).
The Caliber part allows you by means of a 9th button and its LED to calibrate your Plunger without having to launch any software or other.
It can be fixed flat on the bottom of your machine, or on the door using brackets.
The socket is located below the card for aesthetic reasons.
You can use this card as a simple 8 button card for other functions in your Pincab (you just have to assign each button to the desired function) or even under any other type of assembly.
CALIBRE
The CALIBRE allows you to initiate a calibration of your Plunger (Ball Launcher) with just the push of a button.
This saves you from launching Pinscape config tool, and clicking on CALIBRATION, then launching the calibration, then closing the software. Here we press the button for 3 seconds, the LED stays on and you have 15 seconds to move your plunger in all directions, it will be calibrated.
ROM SERVICE
The ROM SERVICE offers you 5 buttons.
I designed these buttons to manage the opening of the corner door, and the 4 service buttons of PINCAB, but you can use them for other things, such as for example managing the volume of your PINCAB, you just need to assign its buttons where you want.
POTAR
To use a real ball launcher on your Pincab, you need a potentiometer.
Here is the POTAR which is none other than a 10KΩ 100mm Mono BOURNS Linear Slide Potentiometer soldered on a PCB.
The POTAR has a plug to connect it properly to your KL SHIELD or your KL25Z.
I added a small socket at the end of the PCB to wire a possible button to simulate the LAUNCH BALL button on some tables, and this very cleanly.
RGB RESISTOR
A very small card with 2 sockets and resistors that will allow you to connect your Gold Leaf type RGB light buttons directly (consumption of 30milliampere buttons) to the 12V outputs of your cards.
It also allows to properly extend the cables which are often short …