MOSBOARD Documentation
SUMMARY:
1 – Presentation of the card
2 – Installation of the card
3 – Operation of the test LEDs
4 – Wiring diagrams and examples
1 – PRESENTATION OF THE CARD:
This board consists of 8 Mosfet lines (power transistor).
It allows you to connect 8 Toys.
Each output passes through a resistance in order to reduce consumption, and therefore the heating of the KL25Z, then through an optocoupler to properly separate the electrical signals of the KL25Z and your Toys, in a MOSFET then finally through a fuse holder at the 5 * 20 format to finish on a socket where you will connect the negative pole of your Toy.
A pink LED lights up when the card receives 12V.
A blue LED is connected to each output which lights up when the output is energized, its light level being proportional to the output level.
THIS CARD ONLY WORKS WITH CONTINUOUS CURRENTS, 48V MAXIMUM!
Each track is calculated to pass 8 amps, and it is forbidden to exceed 20 amps at the same time all cumulative outputs.
TOYS can be controlled at 0 to 48V direct current output only. Orders are made through the negative terminal of the toys, the positive side of the latter will be connected to the positive terminal of the power supply dedicated to toys.
It is necessary to supply the card with DC 12V, the GND power supply cable must be large enough to accept 20 amps (1.5mm² / AWG14).
2 – INSTALLING THE BOARDS :
a – Card wiring
Above all, this card manages ONLY THE DIRECT CURRENT, do not connect any AC voltage on it, never, even under threat!)
Always cable off, once the wiring is done, check it carefully for the first time, take a break for a few minutes, and recheck your wiring. The first cause of error remains humans!
All voltages given in this document are direct current DC
Let’s start with the connectors.
The INSIDE (DEDANS) (9 pins) this is where we make the connection to the KL25Z
The OUTSIDE (DEHORS) (8 pins) that we will connect to the NEGATIVE terminal of our toys
the 12V ALIM TOYS (2 pins) is used to supply the board with 12V, the Toys power supply goes through the GND cable
IN – DEDANS
Here we will connect the GND KL25 terminal to one of the KL25Z GND terminals.
Then we will connect inputs 1 to 8 to the different outputs that we will have configured on the KL25Z,
ALIM TOYS
Please just connect + 12V and GND to your 12V Toys power supply.
The GND cable will carry the current of all Toys, it must be sized accordingly.
Since the card accepts 20 Amps maximum simultaneously, I recommend that you use AWG14 (1.5 mm²) cable for the GND..
OUTSIDE – DEHORS
Please then connect each of the 8 outputs to the negative terminal of your toy, the positive terminal of the toy will be connected to the positive terminal of its power supply.
You will equip each fuse holder with a fuse corresponding to the consumption of the toy which is connected to it. Attention, an unsuitable fuse is useless!
The card being given for 8 amps per output, never put a fuse higher than 8 amps!
Connect the GND terminals of your Toys power supplies (only those of the toys, do not connect with the GND of the KL25Z or the PC)
Remember to put a suitable fuse on each fuse holder.
An unsuitable fuse is as if no protection was put on, too small it will blow immediately, too large it will never blow and therefore is useless.
To choose the appropriate fuse, you have to know the toy’s consumption in amperes, either by documenting it or by measuring it, then put a fuse a bit above the toy’s consumption. If my toys consume 1.2 amps, I put a 1.5 amps MAX fuse
IN ANY CASE, no fuse should be higher than 8 amps !
DRIVING 5V TOYS
If you drive 5V toys, you need a 1N4007 Diode in serial between MOSBOARD & TOY, Ring on board side (NEGATIVESIDE)
3 – Operation of the test LEDs
The LED named POWAAA !!! lights up when the board is powered, i.e. 12 Volts is entering the Toy power supply
Each LED corresponds to their respective outputs.
The TEST1 LED corresponds to output 1, and so on
If the output is not activated, the LED will remain off, as soon as the output is activated (i.e. there is a voltage at the output) the blue LED lights up.
The brightness of the blue test LED is proportional to the output, if for example you have an output connected in PWM and you activate it at 50%, the LED will have its brightness reduced by half.
The led test circuit is located upstream of the fuse holders, i.e. even without a fuse, the LED will react.
There may be a slight residual current flowing, which leaves a bit of brightness to the LED even when the latter is not activated, do not worry, this is normal.
To troubleshoot, it’s quite simple:
If when you activate an output the LED does not light up, this is a configuration problem
If when you activate an output the LED lights up but nothing happens at the output, check your fuse, then the wiring on the TOY side, the problem is surely on this side
4 – WIRING DIAGRAMS AND EXAMPLES
Here are some wiring diagrams corresponding to the majority of situations, wiring of various LEDs, 12V RGB LEDs and 12V RGB strip, classic RGB LEDs, contactors (always with their anti-return diode !!!!) or solenoid, knocker and other shaker and various motors or bells.
